After the dimple is formed in the skins, stringers, ribs, bulkheads and all parts for assembly you will need to go to the next step. This is done by impact or pressure on the dimple die set using a DRDT-2 dimpler, C-Frame dimpling tool, hand squeezer or pneumatic squeezer. In order to do a professional job you will need to start with the dimple die to make the initial dimple. After deburring you are ready to dimple the parts and prepare for assembly. Very lightly so you don't actually cut any metal away, only knock off the rough burrs. The real problem isn't the dimple die, it's the process for installing dimpled flush rivets. I constantly hear and read that dimples are too deep or too shallow and the dimple die is generally blamed for this. Everyone that builds springback dimple dies today uses the original 1942 design with very little difference. What I do know is that the "perfect" 100-degree springback dimple die was perfected in 1942. I don't know if they are dazzling you with their genius or baffling you with BS. The facts are that no matter what dimple die you use for dimpling 02Thin skin you will not get a professional dimpled rivet unless you finish the dimpling process when you set the rivet.Įveryone selling tools has the best dimple dies on the market! Some suppliers claim to have developed and hold the secret to the perfect springback dimple die after years of fine tuning. It takes a few seconds on each flush rivet, but produces the best quality rivet. We do it all of the time on our production STC's kits when flush rivets are installed. I am always surprised that many RV builders have not tried this.
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